Sightseeing in the old town

It is fascinating to walk in the medieval town, full of impressive 15^th century buildings, stone-paved lanes with arches and vaults, rows of little shops, a modern touch to the medieval picture, offering a surprising variety of commodities.

Perhaps the best starting point for a journey through medieval Rhodes is the wall (14^th century; 5km long). As we cross one of the most famous gates, Pili Eleftrerias (Freedom gate) we encounter traces of the Temple of Venus (3^rd century BC), also the Inn of Auvergne Knights, the Arsenal, the Museum of Decorative Arts (folklore exhibits from the Dodecanese Islands), the Byzantine Museum (in a 13^th century church), the majestic Harbour Gate.

The Archaeological Museum (tel. 0241 27 674), housed in the 15^th century building of the Knights' Hospital, includes collections of coins, pots and sculptures from the Mycenean up to the Roman era. We note the kneeling Venus of Rhodes (1^st century AD) and the sepulchral column of Tymarista and Crito.

The Knight's Road, the official street of the medieval city, follows the ancient road to the Palace of the Grand Masters. Along the road lie the Inns of the Knights of Seven Languages, of which four still remain.

The Palace of the Grand Masters or Knight's Palace (14^th century) is a palace and fortress that dominates the old town. It was destroyed in 1856 and rebuilt in 1940. Floors are covered with ancient mosaics of the island of Cos. There is an interesting collection of the 16^th and 17^th century Western furniture, and an impressive arcade used as a place for meetings. The Palace has been renovated and is used to house important international functions. Other remarkable sights of the old town are the Mosque of Sulleiman, an old church with a beautiful Italian door, the Castellania (a 16^th century building now housing the Library) with its beautiful fountain, St. Catherine's Hospital, the Admiralty Palace to its right, finally the Folk Dance Theater that presents traditional music, dances and costumes in their purest form.

The new town

On entering Mandraki (yacht harbour), the most picturesque of the three ports of the city, we are welcomed by two deer in bronze. Erected, probably where the famous Colossus of Rhodes used to stand, they have become the modern emblem of the town. Nearby on the wharf stands the lighthouse tower of St. Nicholas and the three old colourful windmills. Numerous monumental buildings surround Mandraki and add to its majestic air - among others the New Market (Nea Agora), a polygonal building with courtyard, the Archbishop's Palace, the Evangelismos (Annunciation) Church, the Central Post Office, the Town Hall, the Theater and the Government House - all four impressive buildings along the pier. Next to the Theater one admires Murad Reis Mosque and its graceful minaret. At the north end of the town stands the Institute of Marine Biology (Aquarium).

The Ancient City

Although Rhodes was a large city, relatively few ruins have been found. The ancient Acropolis stood on the eastern city of the Monte Smith hill, overlooking the city. Further on one sees the Stadium (3^rd century BC) and the curiously square sized Odeum (both rebuilt). Performances of ancient drama are held every summer in the Odeum. There are also a few ruins of the temples of Polias Athena, Pythian Apollo and Zeus.

Sights near the city

Only 3km from the city lies the luscious greenery of Rodini Park, with many flower-gardens, picturesque lanes and ponds. From Rodini one can visit the Tomb of Ptolemies and the ruins of a Roman aqueduct.

East coast

The most fascinating site on east coast is Lindos (47km from the city of Rhodes), built on the ruins of the ancient Doric town of the same name. In the medieval times Lindos was the second most important centre of the island, after the city of Rhodes itself. The ancient Acropolis was then built into a castle. It is said that St. Paul the apostle landed here when he came to the island of Rhodes, accordingly the tiny harbour on the other side of the village has been named "Agios Pavlos".

Under the steep cliff of the Acropolis lies the present townlet, charming with its whitewashed houses and pebbled courtyards. Houses retain traditional interiors, heavy ironwork on balconies and brown windows. Some 15^th century houses have been officially declared traditional buildings to be preserved. One should also visit the church of the Virgin Mary (Panagia) of Lindos and the chapel of Agios Pavlos.

A series of steps leads to the Acropolis. Inside the main gate we discern the ruins of the Knight's Lodge and the Byzantine church of St. John.

Outside the Doric Stoa the prow of a Lindian Hellenistic trireme has been carved in a rock (4.5 x 5m). We cross the Doric Stoa (5^th century BC) with its 42 columns (20 have been restored) and climb the majestic staircase to a higher terrace with Propylean ruins (5^th century BC). From this point we reach the Sanctuary of Lindian Athena, with its elegant bi-prostyle temple on the edge of the cliff (4^th century). Ruins of an ancient theater have been found on the slope of the Acropolis.

There are other beauties on this part of the island besides antiquities. Koskinou (10km) is an inland village with charming traditional houses. Kalithea (10.5km) is built around a colourful pine-covered bay with old spas; Faliraki (14km) is a cosmopolitan resort with an exquisite beach, Ladiko boasts a beautiful coast, Afandou (21km) is an old Rhodian village with an interesting church and a golf course. To the right of the Kolimbia coast a road leads to the enchanting Seven Springs (Epta Piges), a cool oasis with pine and plane-trees and crystal-clear waters. Tsambika has a beautiful sandy coast and a mountain where the monastery of the Virgin Mary stands.

Arhangelos (29km) is note worthy for its beautiful traditional houses, ceramics and carpet workshops. Haraki, a charming fishing village, lies on the beginning of the marvelous coast which leads to the Vilha Bay, and includes the medieval castle of Faraklos. To the south of Lindos we meet traditional villages here and there and charming coasts until the road abandons the coastline and turns left towards Katavia (80km), a major village in southern Rhodes. But the journey is not yet over. It's worthwhile to follow the unpaved earth road leading to the Prassonissi penisula, full of sand dunes and accessible only in the summer, as the sea transforms it into a true island in winter.

West coast

Populous resorts, important archaeological sites, picturesque villages await us on this side of the island as well.

Following the road to the west, we cross the great coast where most of the island's hotels are clustered and reach Trianda (8km) or Ialissos, a townlet surrounded by orchards. The beach of Ialissos marks the end of the great chain of hotels starting from the beach of the city of Rhodes. One should visit here the church of the Dormition of Theotokos (Virgin Mary, Mother of God) with its famous wood carved temple, and then follow the winding picturesque road crossing the pine-wood up to the Acropolis of Ialissos (6km) the important Doric city built on the flat top of Mt. Filerimos, strategically overlooking the island.

Places of archaeological interest include the temple of Polias Athena (3^rd century BC), the Baptismal Font of an early Christian church, the brilliantly restored church of Panagia Filermos, the monastery, the ruins of a medieval castle, the Doric fountain and the ancient necropolis.

Further to the west on the coast road, after Kremasti and Paradissi, one should go up left and reach the lush greenery of the famous Petaloudes (Butterflies) valley (25km), unique in the whole of Greece. Millions of butterflies gather here in the summer. Returning to the coast road we reach the side-road leading to Ancient Kamiros, third in importance commercial centre of Antiquity (34km). We discern parts of houses and buildings, the Agora, with its Doric Stoa (3^rd century), a Hellenistic temenos with Doric temple, ruins of an aqueduct and remnants of the peripheral temple of Kamiriad Athena. Beside the foundations of that temple stands the Panagia Monastery, near to a proto-Christian catacomb.

The west road continues for a while along the coast, reaches the village Scala Kamirou (51km), then turns inland. From this village, with picturesque windmills and a panoramic view to the opposite islets, one can reach Chalki by caique. The traveler will be pleasantly surprised by the amphitheatric Kritinia village (55km), with a nearby medieval castle, then Siana, (69km), full of old stone houses, and Monolithos, built on pine covered slopes of Mt. Ataviros. To the south one crosses endless green fields to reach Apolakia (84km), famous for its marriage feasts, and finally the opposite side - Katavia(102km).

Inland

Not only coastal Rhodes is worth a visit. An inland journey uncovers beautiful traditional villages, untouched by the cosmopolitan spirit of tourist resorts. If we start out from Agios Syllas monastery, lost among the pine beach, we can reach Profitis Ilias (altitude 720m) with its monastery and panoramic view of the sea. This is an enchanting journey, leading to idyllic villages on hill-tops or built on gentle slopes, with stone houses, whitewashed or ochre. Villages like Apolona, Agios Isidoros, Embonas, Laerma, Askiplio, Messanagros, Psithos and Salakos, stay in the visitor's memory for ever, each for its own charms but all with equally gentle and hospitable inhabitants.